Please read the following link to understand how and air conditioning system works.  I'm sure this information will prove to be helpful in performing the retrofit.  We strongly recommend it!  AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEMS

So your A/C has called it quits and it’s summer. Welcome to the club. It’s due time our cars start to deteriorate and the A/C system is no exception. But what do you want to do? Our systems were originally equipped with CFC R-12 refrigerant, which is not only now difficult and costly to obtain, you must be EPA 609 certified to buy it.

This project will explain basic A/C repairs and retrofitting our cars to the new, non-CFC refrigerant, R-134a. Why should you retrofit? Well, we’re not going to tell you to retrofit. It is a time consuming, sensitive project that must be done carefully. By all means, R-12 is a much better refrigerant and if all you need is a top-off, then we would recommend sticking with R-12 as it would be a cheaper fix since it IS still available in most areas. If there is any system damage (busted hoses, lines, leaking or bad compressor, leaking or damaged condenser, etc.) that requires opening the system for repair, you may want to consider retrofitting. If a situation arises that a compressor needs to be replaced, chances are, it would be cheaper to buy the tools you need and retrofit yourself then it would be to have an A/C shop do the repairs with R-12 or even have them retrofit to R-134a for you. Plus, the next time you need to do any repairs to any other vehicles, you’ll already have the tools (and experience).

Although, most people experience better cooling with R-12, we’re going to show you some tips and tricks to get the most out of your R-134a conversion for our particular vehicles. We won’t guarantee it’ll be just as good, but damn close! Plus, next time you need to repair your system for anything, you’ll already be converted and R-134a refrigerant will be a lot more easily obtainable and cheaper.

SUMMARY: Do NOT use kits from local discount stores.  They DO NOT WORK!  I only recommend ACSource.com and ACKits.com due to quality of services and parts.  IROCZONE does NOT receive any compensation for mentioning their names.  Only from experience and rave reviews from many other people that have used their parts and services.  If you feel like cutting corners or going with cheap parts, I suggest you stop here and take your car to a professional.  I have tried the cheap way and it ended up costing me more in the long run.  Please pay close attention to the following directions as they are based on real experience, not guess work.

If your system is under pressure (still has R-12 in it), you should have it recovered by an A/C shop. Intentional venting of CFC refrigerants is highly illegal and is subject to a $25,000 fine by the EPA … we didn’t make it up.

Parts Needed (Minimum):

Accumulator

• R-134a compatible, XH-7 or XH-9 desiccant.  About $33 plus shipping from ACKits.com.  Stores cost about $40 to $50.

An absolute must in a retrofit. If you don’t feel like spending the money on this replacement part, stop now and don’t continue. We’re serious!  ACKits.com sells these at good prices.

O-Rings

• Green, R-134a compatible, complete set for ALL parts you can access.  The complete set is most recommended.  It's better to have more than not enough.  About $30 for a whole set with more than just O-Rings.

O-Ring Lube

• Generally, coating the O-Rings with AC oil helps in sealing the lines.  To prevent breakdown of the O-Ring material and help connections last longer, we recommend Nylog O-Ring lube from ACSource.com.  It's only a few bucks more.

Oil

• PolyAlpha+ from ACSource.com or 
• Texaco Capella HFC 100 (POE) from ACKits.com or
• POE (Polyol Ester) 100 oil from most automotive distributors if you don’t feel like ordering online.

TIP: We strongly recommend either the first or second item. It’s worth the wait. And while you’re at it, you can order all of the tools and other replacement parts at the same time. Let’s take our times on this … it’ll last a lot longer if you do it right the first time!  Oils cost about $5 for 8oz or $12 per quart.

Adapters

• Low side port 7/16" (20 threads) Less than $3
• High side port 3/8" (24 threads) Less than $3

TIP: We’ve heard this way too often. "Best kind of adapter is no adapter. Second best are made of brass." Keeping this in mind, we recommend brass adapters from ACSource.com. They are much cheaper than what you’d find anywhere else and have their own Schrader valve (to replace the old worn out ones in your system). If you bought one of those cheap retrofit kits with the adapters included (Interdynamics), DO NOT USE THOSE ADAPTERS! They are cheap aluminum and use the existing Schrader valves. They would do better in the trash!  You have been warned!

Orifice Tube

• GM standard Orifice Tube, for our application, is 0.72 White or White/Black (designed for R12).  TIP: The GM 0.72 Orifice Tube will work, however, research and experience have found that using the Ford 0.67 Blue Orifice Tube provides better performance for our retrofitted cars due to the smaller opening (for the smaller molecular makeup of R134a compared to R12).  A better regulated flow into the evaporator proves to have better and more efficient cooling.  We recommend the Ford 0.67 Blue Orifice Tube for this application.  These should be available at most automotive stores (NAPA) or other local automotive AC shops.  If needed, ask for one for an 82 to 89 Ford Thunderbird w/ 302 CID V8.  You can also order one online at ACKits.com or if you prefer a kit of multiple sizes for different applications, ACSource.com has these.  They run about $2 to $5, depending on where you buy it.

Refrigerant 134a 

• 3 to 4, 12 oz. Cans (depending on location, anywhere from $4 to $8 per can)

No special brand, Dupont Seva, Interdynamics, etc.

Tools needed: