Although I like the stock shifter, I wanted something a little different. I was thinking about the Hurst Duel Gate shifter but I liked the way the ratchet shifter looked… I read mixed reviews about it. Mainly that it was a PITA to install.
B&M shifter. (I have to clean my carpets from all the get in/out work lol)
MY INSTRUCTIONS ARE MENT AS A GUIED TO BE USED WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT SHOULD BE GIVEN WITH THE KIT. FAILURE TO ADJUST SOMETHING PROPERLY CAN DAMADGE YOUR SHIFTER, CABLE, TRANNY. IF YOU DAMAGE SOMETHING I AM NOT RESPONCIBAL FOR YOUR ERRORS. TAKE TOUR TIME. DON’T RUSH.
The first step that needs to be done is to remove the blocker pin so the shifter will work for 4-speed operation if needed. If you have a 3 speed leave it in… simple as that. The instructions cover this pretty well.
It’s easiest to install the micro switches now rather then later in the assembly. They are the neutral safety and backup light switches. Use two #4-40 x 1 screws and nuts… be careful over tightening the bolts can cause the switches to crack… if you look closely you will see little bumps on the wall of the shifter. Those trigger the switches. To adjust them loosen the nuts and re-tighten.
The next step is to remove the stock shift knob. The instructions say this can be done by just pulling on the detent button and removing a snap ring…although my whole knob just came off.
Remove the shifter plate or top counsel by removing the 6 screws. Now disconnect the 2 cables to the stock shifter… the one on the left is the shift cable and the one on the right is the park lock cable. Remove the wire harness too. The park lock cable has to be wired so it will stay in the farthest position forward. (Fully in)(Where it is in park)
Then unbolt the 5 screws (1 on each side, 1 in the middle rear) save them you will need to reuse them later.
Remove the cable bracket and the selector lever from the tranny with the tranny bolts that hold it there.
The bracket holds the cable the lever is what attaches to the tranny.
(pic a little ahead)
Remove the stock cable. Then install the rear-mounting bracket on the floor. Then bolt the front mounting bracket on the shifter. Place the shifter on the mounting brackets and loosely tighten the shifter down. Then you will need to make marks on the floor using the slots for the front mounting bracket. Then remove the shifter and drill holes where u marked. (9/32”)
Rear mounting bracket slots that you mark. Notice the mounting plate for the cable make sure he tab on the cable is on the backside of it.
Marks I made mounting plate see above pic.
After drilling you will install the new B&M cable supplied. The instructions give u a good diagram if u need further help. The cable attachment tab should be bolted to the outside of the surface of the shifter base by using the 1/4’ x 1/2’ bolt with a 1/4’ lock washer and nut… then secure the cable to the shifter cable pin with a E-clip.
You can see the mounting pin above the switches.
Ok B&M cable is about 2 feet longer then the stock shifter cable is. I don’t know why it’s so long.
Feed the cable into the hole. You will need to install the indicator cable on to the shifter with an E-clip with the two #6 x3/8” sheet metal screws. Set the shifter plate to the side. Then install the shifter with the bolts…
Make sure you DO NOT KINK THE CABLE… if you do u WILL RUIN IT!! … I don’t know how to get the doughnut thing off so I used a razor and cut it off, it’s just rubber. Re installs it with the new shift cable.
Cable through hole with doughnut. Shifter mounted the bracket
Again DON’T KINK THE CABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now install the selector lever onto the tranny using the stock bolt tighten to 23 ft. lbs. Then install the cable bracket. It must be installed with the spacers between the pan and bracket. Install it with the two 5/16×1.00” bolts given and torque them to 12-12 ft. lbs.
Selector lever cable bracket (this pic is a little ahead)
You will need to route the cable like the one shown in figure #4 of the instructions… to give you an idea here is a picture below.
Now there is two little rubber boots and a nut and lock washer on the tranny cable. Your will need to remove them to slide the cable through the hole of the cable bracket. Install the large nut and lock washer loosely. Then re-install the boots onto the front of the cable. Take the swivel piece and screw it on to the end of the cable. Make sure u center it between the threaded areas.
Large nuts and lock washer to adjust cable Picture of swivel
Now move the tranny selector to the rear position (all the Back or low gear.) Move the shifter all the way to the low gear also. Now you will need to adjust the large bolts so the black swivel will fit in and out of the forward hole smoothly.
Now counter lock the bolts together. THE SHIFTER CAN CAUSE DAMAGE IF NOT ADJUSTED PROPERLY…TAKE YOUR TIME. IT CAN ALSO BE DAMAGED BY NOT USING THE FRONT HOLE. Leave the swivel out of the whole and move the selector lever back to park (all the way forward). Move the shifter back to park too. Put the swivel into the front hole in the lever. If you did it right it should slide in smoothly, if not re-adjust the cable. Remove the swivel again and go back to low gear… Move the ratchet to low gear again… check to see if the swivel slides in the hole again. Do this to all the gears and DON’T forget to move the shifter too.
Finally put the shifter in park and the selector lever. If everything is good, all you got to do now it put the swivel in the whole and install the cotter pin and bend the prongs apart.
Hey now, guess what? You are done with being under the car.J
Time for wiring, the instructions say to remove the negative battery cable and cut the wiring harness… I choose not to. If you do want to cut it, follow the instructions. I simply got connectors that fit in the prongs and wired extension wires to it. You would need to extend the wires about 6in. Also you will need to purchase a radio shack relay for around 10$, part #275-206 this must be used for torque converter lockup. There is a good wiring diagram on the back of the instructions…it’s probably easier to understand then me using up 3 more pages to tell about it. So use the instructions!!!! Make sure u wire everything correctly. When I did mine my reverse lights work correctly but my car started in gear… so ill have to make some adjustments to the switch.
To help a little ill try to explain the diagram..
wire A (BLK WHT) goes to pin #5
Wire B (ORNG BLK) goes to Pin #9
Wire C ( DRK BLU) goes to both micro switches. then from the 2nd prong on the lower, that goes to Pin #13
Wire D (LT GRN) goes to upper switch
Then Pin #14 goes to a ground
Cut old bulb assembly and wire it with the new one.
Now to vent your frustrations… u need to remove the shift indicator assembly off of the shifter plate. I used a hot razor. Now there is a template included in the kit to cut the stock shift plate. Yes you ARE cutting the stock shifter plate! Mine was already cracked a little so I figured what the hell, ill just pick a new one off of E-bay if needed. If you do crack yours again when cutting simply use some super glue to fix it. If u have a keyhole saw or something that would work well.
Modified shifter plate.
Feed the B&M cover plate through the stock one. Install the light bulb in the socket on the cover plate. Snap the correct cover plate in the shift counsel. (P R N D 3 2 1)
Then bolt everything down. Slide the boot over everything and fit it in, it is labeled “front” Install the T handle and the jam nut. Adjust to your liking. Make sure u put some grease or something on the threads because they can strip out easy. Go over the instructions and make sure u did not forget anything. Remember to do some routine maintenance that’s it … when done have fun.
Here is a start and finish comparison.
Now pat yourself on the back and eat some rice.